S4 Ep 34: The History Of Tacos With Guest Lauren Davis

In this episode of Sprung On Food, I’m thrilled to have stand-up comedian and writer Lauren Davis with us to talk about the history of a universally loved food: tacos.

A Personal Connection to Tacos:

Lauren's relationship with tacos spans years, from her childhood in St. Louis, Missouri, indulging in Old El Paso tacos with her mom, to savoring authentic delights during visits to her dad in LA. As Lauren reminisces, tacos symbolize familial warmth and the vibrant culinary diversity of her travels. They represent nostalgia, a staple of her life enriched by flavors from across borders.

Tacos: A Historical Exploration:

Lauren's personal anecdotes beautifully segue into the broader narrative of tacos. We journey back to 500 BCE, where the Olmec civilization thrived on maize, anchoring their dietary and cosmological existence. The innovative process of Nixtamalization revolutionized maize consumption, leading to the creation of tortillas—a precursor to the modern taco.

From tortillas to tacos: the evolution marks a fascinating exploration of indigenous innovation mingled with the influences of Spanish colonization. A tortilla served as a plate, utensil, and napkin, embodying the multitasking essence cherished in tacos today.

The Genesis of the Taco:

The etymology of "taco" is as intriguing as its development. In 18th-century Mexico, miners wrapped gunpowder in paper—tacos—for blasting in mines, a nod to their resemblance to folded tortillas filled with food. The culinary taco we know emerged from street food culture in thriving Mexican cities, serving meals with flavorful fillings such as cabeza (head meat) and lengua (tongue).

The Birth of Regional Varieties:

Our affection for tacos also lies in their regional variations. Whether it's the al pastor, a fusion of Lebanese shawarma influences, or the deeply traditional barbacoa, tacos display culinary ingenuity. They are portable, adaptable, and culturally significant—elements Lauren appreciates deeply. When asked about her ideal "Tacos de Lauren," she imagines marinated meat nestled in a flour tortilla, garnished with pickled onions, salsa, cilantro, and avocado.

Tacos in the U.S.: A Tale of Adaptation and Commercialization:

Tacos gained U.S. popularity through entrepreneurial visionaries like Glen Bell, founder of Taco Bell. His mass franchising introduced a standardized version of the taco to non-Latin American audiences, creating a culinary sensation. However, the authentic roots laid by Mexican cooks and vendors paved the path for this global phenomenon.

The Legal Folklore of Taco Tuesday:

The phrase "Taco Tuesday" carries its own legal saga. Once trademarked by Taco John's and fought over by corporate giants and celebrities alike, it emphasizes the taco's cultural impact. The victory in "liberating" Taco Tuesday exemplifies the public's collective claim on this beloved tradition.

Celebrating Tacos: Cultural Significance and Global Influence:

Tacos' story isn't complete without honoring their indigenous and working-class roots. The United Nations' recognition of Mexican cuisine underscores the importance of acknowledging traditional food systems. Today, taquerias like Guisados in LA and Tacos El Franc in Tijuana preserve this rich culinary heritage, serving authentic offerings to eager patrons.

A Culinary Symphony:

As Lauren articulates, the beauty of tacos lies in their diversity. They transcend mere food—they are a testament to migration, innovation, and memory. Whether you're relishing a birria taco in Tijuana or a fusion in London, you're tasting a history as complex and varied as the taco itself.

Join us in celebrating the taco, an edible icon evolving with every bite.

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