S4 Ep 2: The History Of Macaroni And Cheese With Guest Kahja Elliott

In this episode, we're diving into a dish that evokes waves of nostalgia and comfort - macaroni and cheese. Joined by guest Kahja Elliott, host of "As Told by Podcast," we explore the journey of mac and cheese from regal banquet tables to modern-day dinner staples.

The Personal Connection

For Kahja, mac and cheese is more than a meal; it's a manifestation of cherished family gatherings and celebrations. Rooted deeply in her Southern family traditions, macaroni and cheese symbolized a special occasion meal, marking graduations, holidays, and family reunions. This sentiment resonates with many who see the dish as a “signifier of good times,” as Kahja describes it.

The Perfect Recipe

Kahja humorously discusses the “treachery” often involved in passing down mac and cheese recipes, touching on the variations found in different households. She shares her own perfected version, complete with elbow macaroni, canned evaporated milk, and a combination of sharp cheddars. A touch of controversy adds flavor to the mix, as the inclusion of eggs creates a delicious schism between creaminess and firmness in her baked mac and cheese.

Historical Origins

Believe it or not, our beloved dish has regal beginnings. Originating as far back as the 13th century in Italy, pasta paired with cheese sauces graced the tables of Italian nobility and later French royalty. This prestigious dish made its way to England by the 1700s, transforming into macaroni pudding. Its popularity soared, inspiring songs and even forming the basis of the humorous term “macaroni” in the song Yankee Doodle, which in turn became an emblem of American resilience and independence during the Revolutionary War.

Mac and Cheese in America

The journey continued across the Atlantic when Thomas Jefferson brought mac and cheese to America. Yet, it was during the Great Depression and World War II that the dish truly became ingrained in American culture, thanks to the innovative packaging by Kraft. The introduction of boxed macaroni and cheese offered a convenient, budget-friendly meal option, with its popularity booming during wartime for its ease of preparation and minimal ingredient requirement.

Modern Takes and Trends

Today, mac and cheese is no longer confined to a box on the store shelf. It has evolved into gourmet iterations, featuring everything from truffle oil to jalapeños in fine dining establishments. The dish's versatility is further demonstrated in creative social media concoctions and themed festivals celebrating its rich heritage.

Homeroom in Oakland exemplifies this modern twist, offering an entire menu dedicated to the beloved dish with unique variations like goat cheese-themed mac and cheese, showcasing the dish's full circle return to regal elegance.

Mac and cheese's saga from medieval opulence to modern-day favorite underscores its place as a timeless comfort food. Whether served as a basic staple at home or a gourmet masterpiece at a five-star edifice, one truth remains: mac and cheese warms hearts as much as it fills bellies. So, next time you savor that cheesy goodness, reflect on its rich history and its remarkable adaptability through time.

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katherine sprung